San Telmo

14 Meyers Place, Melbourne

In the last six months, Myers Place – a quiet, unassuming Melbourne laneway – has burst into life with the addition of three new restaurants, each bidding for a place in Melbourne’s dynamic dining scene.

Tonight we have opted for San Telmo, an Argentinian parrilla named after one of the barrios (neighbourhoods) in Buenos Aires. The restaurant is inspired by the traditional steak houses of Argentina and the owner’s love of the country and its culture, food and wine. Having been lucky enough to experience the Buenos Aires lifestyle for myself, I admit that my excitement and expectations are high as we make our way through the city streets this Friday evening.

Walking in, I am immediately transported back: the smoky aroma from the 2.5m parrilla (chargrill) filling the room, the black and white tiles that line the floor, dark wooden furnishings and leather upholstery, floor-to-ceiling wine racks, cow hides and large mirrors filling the vacant wall space – all reminiscent of the parrillas of old. I am particularly taken by the use of old jars and bottles filled with lights that hang in small clusters in an interesting take on the classic chandelier.

We take our place amongst the bustling diners and, without hesitation, order a bottle of Mendoza Malbec; it is smooth and velvety, a perfect complement for the meal ahead. Our waiter explains that in keeping with tradition, the menu has been designed to share, so with her instructions in mind we start ordering: pita bread with olive oil and pickled eggplant and two varieties of empanada – beef, egg & olive and provolone, mozzarella, basil & capsicum. The empanadas are a must: the traditional fillings are bursting with flavour and served steaming hot. A perfect way to begin

And so to the mains. Warned by the waiter that the portions are small, the four of us decide on the chorizo argentino, calamari, beef short ribs and the entraña – a 300g hanger steak – with side dishes of grilled capsicum with egg, beans & olives, crispy potato galette and grilled zucchini, eggplant & roast garlic, all cooked on the chargrill. Delish! By cooking each component on the parrilla, the fire and smoke create a new depth of flavour, authentic to the traditional Argentinian menu.

The evening passes in a steady flow of Melbec, conversation, laughter and great food, just as it did on our holiday in Buenos Aires. In my eyes, San Telmo has captured the essence of Argentina and its proud dining culture.

Rated 16.5 O's out of 20