Señoritas

16 Meyers Place, Melbourne

I am instantly intrigued: the neon street sign invites me in and promises to take me on a journey away from the laneways of Melbourne to the madness that is Mexico City.

And madness is certainly a word I would use to describe Señoritas: the restaurant is dimly lit, though the space is alive with colour; gothic artworks and Mexican religious iconography create a strong sense of light verses dark.  This unique interior has been created by Melbourne interior design consultancy Lombard & Jack, who have taken inspiration from the Mexican tradition of “Dia de Muertos” (Day of Dead) and pays homage to Mexican women and their iconic status. The space is fresh, modern and exciting and I can’t wait to see where this journey will take me tonight.

Head chef Hugo Reyes has designed a menu that is both authentic to his Mexican heritage, selecting traditional dishes from the Oaxaca and the Yucatan Peninsula regions, and contemporary to modern food trends. Seated, with wine in hand, we make our first order of the evening:  corn sautéed with onion and epazote (a Mexican herb), served with mayonnaise, queso fresco, chile piquin and lime, and two thick (but tiny) hand-made tortillas topped with poached duck, tamarind mole sauce and queso fresco. Unlike the corn at nearby rival Mamasita, it is not served on the cob; this time the kernels have been removed then seasoned with the tongue-tingling herb, but the flavour is essentially the same: yum! The home-made tortillas are great, thick and well seasoned and a perfect introduction to the tacos we are about to order.

Our tacos arrive one by one: grilled prawn with black refried beans, fresh tomato, avocado, chipotle mayonnaise and Mexican rice; slow-roasted Mexican-style pork with pickled onions and habaňero salsa; and, my personal favourite, confit of hapuka fish with Spanish onion, guacamole, coriander and fresh lime. Although it sounds like a lot, the portions are very small – not your everyday stand-and-stuff from mean Old El Paso. The flavours are there but, unlike other regional cuisines such as Thai or Vietnamese, they do not burst into life; they are far more subtle. But bland, no.

For our last dish of the day we opt for the free-range chicken breast with mole poblano, Mexican rice, refried beans and a cheese and sesame wafer. Mole poblano is a traditional Mexican sauce made from a stunning 20 ingredients, including chocolate and a variety of chillies.  Despite this, the dish is neither overly spicy nor sweet. The sauce, however, is very strong in flavour and I can imagine it may not be for everyone. I certainly enjoyed it –and, mixed with the chicken and Mexican rice, it was a great way to end the evening.

I pause for a moment to take in the eclectic restaurant around me, now full of diners enjoying a small taste of Mexico, and, although I have never visited the region, I can’t help but feel that Señoritas has really captured the essence of that enchanting city.  

Rated 14.5 O's out of 20

San Telmo

14 Meyers Place, Melbourne

In the last six months, Myers Place – a quiet, unassuming Melbourne laneway – has burst into life with the addition of three new restaurants, each bidding for a place in Melbourne’s dynamic dining scene.

Tonight we have opted for San Telmo, an Argentinian parrilla named after one of the barrios (neighbourhoods) in Buenos Aires. The restaurant is inspired by the traditional steak houses of Argentina and the owner’s love of the country and its culture, food and wine. Having been lucky enough to experience the Buenos Aires lifestyle for myself, I admit that my excitement and expectations are high as we make our way through the city streets this Friday evening.

Walking in, I am immediately transported back: the smoky aroma from the 2.5m parrilla (chargrill) filling the room, the black and white tiles that line the floor, dark wooden furnishings and leather upholstery, floor-to-ceiling wine racks, cow hides and large mirrors filling the vacant wall space – all reminiscent of the parrillas of old. I am particularly taken by the use of old jars and bottles filled with lights that hang in small clusters in an interesting take on the classic chandelier.

We take our place amongst the bustling diners and, without hesitation, order a bottle of Mendoza Malbec; it is smooth and velvety, a perfect complement for the meal ahead. Our waiter explains that in keeping with tradition, the menu has been designed to share, so with her instructions in mind we start ordering: pita bread with olive oil and pickled eggplant and two varieties of empanada – beef, egg & olive and provolone, mozzarella, basil & capsicum. The empanadas are a must: the traditional fillings are bursting with flavour and served steaming hot. A perfect way to begin

And so to the mains. Warned by the waiter that the portions are small, the four of us decide on the chorizo argentino, calamari, beef short ribs and the entraña – a 300g hanger steak – with side dishes of grilled capsicum with egg, beans & olives, crispy potato galette and grilled zucchini, eggplant & roast garlic, all cooked on the chargrill. Delish! By cooking each component on the parrilla, the fire and smoke create a new depth of flavour, authentic to the traditional Argentinian menu.

The evening passes in a steady flow of Melbec, conversation, laughter and great food, just as it did on our holiday in Buenos Aires. In my eyes, San Telmo has captured the essence of Argentina and its proud dining culture.

Rated 16.5 O's out of 20