Union Dining

272 Swan Street, Richmond

As the week finally came to a close I was looking forward to a quiet date night in neighbouring Richmond, a suburb I have rarely eaten in despite its close proximity and abundance of restaurants.

Union Dining is relatively new on the Melbourne dinner scene and has already received a well deserved pat on the back by reviewers and diners alike. Serving up a mix of French inspired culinary delights, Union Dining captures the class and elegance of the French culture while leaving the pretence at the door.

Walking in I was taken aback by the large space of the room, it almost felt odd as I have become so accustomed to the cozy small restaurants and bars that are a signature of our city. From our comfortable nook next to the open fire, a welcome relief from the cold wind that has accompanied us this evening, we have a vantage point overlooking the rest of the restaurant and as I warm up I begin to take in my surroundings for the evening. Teak tables and thonet chairs are spread out evenly across the terracotta tiles and along the street facing window. A beige booth separates the bar and dining areas while opposite large white pillars break up the extended room.  Although the space is large and not all the diners have arrived it does not feel awkwardly empty or cold, in fact quite the opposite. 

The service is fantastic and our waitress effortlessly explains the entrees and as we deliberate our bottle of Barone Ricasoli Chianti is poured. We decide to try the Bresaola (cured rare beef) with slow roasted eggplant relish and a Pissaladière (French onion tart). Both are delectable. The beef is fresh and soft, and together with the tang of the marinade and the sweet of the eggplant relish leaves our palates freshened for the meals ahead. The fluffy rich pastry of the tart crumbles and melts in the mouth.

I have had a long running love affair with pappardelle since my visit to Italy last year and find it impossible not to order when I find it on a menu, forever chasing that soft buttery pasta and the rich, elegant wild boar ragu. Tonight it is not wild boar but slightly unusual none the less, rabbit ragu, green olives & ricotta saltat. I have never eaten rabbit before and I am happily surprised by the light flavour of the meat, combined with the saltiness of the olive the ragu is a real treat. The pasta itself is perfectly cooked and lives up to my high expectations that have been embellished with time.

As we enjoy the last of our red and soak up the heat permeating from the fire place and soft buzz of the restaurant we decide to order a selection of cheeses to finish. We decide to go for the L’artisan triple créme with apple & walnuts, Taleggio & apricot jam and Ossau Iraty & mustard fruits served with toasted baguette and rye.  Our mix of hard, soft and blue cheeses perfectly matches their accompaniments and bring out the body of the wine, just as had been desired.

Tonight I have learnt to re-embrace the larger restaurant and not judge a place by its covers capacity. Union Dining has taken the cozy warmth of a 40 seater, combined it with the luxury of privacy and space in perfect unison and the result is Swan streets hottest new resident for some time. 

Rated: 16 O’s out of 20