I am instantly intrigued: the neon street sign invites me in and promises to take me on a journey away from the laneways of Melbourne to the madness that is Mexico City.
And madness is certainly a word I would use to describe Señoritas: the restaurant is dimly lit, though the space is alive with colour; gothic artworks and Mexican religious iconography create a strong sense of light verses dark. This unique interior has been created by Melbourne interior design consultancy Lombard & Jack, who have taken inspiration from the Mexican tradition of “Dia de Muertos” (Day of Dead) and pays homage to Mexican women and their iconic status. The space is fresh, modern and exciting and I can’t wait to see where this journey will take me tonight.
Head chef Hugo Reyes has designed a menu that is both authentic to his Mexican heritage, selecting traditional dishes from the Oaxaca and the Yucatan Peninsula regions, and contemporary to modern food trends. Seated, with wine in hand, we make our first order of the evening: corn sautéed with onion and epazote (a Mexican herb), served with mayonnaise, queso fresco, chile piquin and lime, and two thick (but tiny) hand-made tortillas topped with poached duck, tamarind mole sauce and queso fresco. Unlike the corn at nearby rival Mamasita, it is not served on the cob; this time the kernels have been removed then seasoned with the tongue-tingling herb, but the flavour is essentially the same: yum! The home-made tortillas are great, thick and well seasoned and a perfect introduction to the tacos we are about to order.
Our tacos arrive one by one: grilled prawn with black refried beans, fresh tomato, avocado, chipotle mayonnaise and Mexican rice; slow-roasted Mexican-style pork with pickled onions and habaňero salsa; and, my personal favourite, confit of hapuka fish with Spanish onion, guacamole, coriander and fresh lime. Although it sounds like a lot, the portions are very small – not your everyday stand-and-stuff from mean Old El Paso. The flavours are there but, unlike other regional cuisines such as Thai or Vietnamese, they do not burst into life; they are far more subtle. But bland, no.
For our last dish of the day we opt for the free-range chicken breast with mole poblano, Mexican rice, refried beans and a cheese and sesame wafer. Mole poblano is a traditional Mexican sauce made from a stunning 20 ingredients, including chocolate and a variety of chillies. Despite this, the dish is neither overly spicy nor sweet. The sauce, however, is very strong in flavour and I can imagine it may not be for everyone. I certainly enjoyed it –and, mixed with the chicken and Mexican rice, it was a great way to end the evening.
I pause for a moment to take in the eclectic restaurant around me, now full of diners enjoying a small taste of Mexico, and, although I have never visited the region, I can’t help but feel that Señoritas has really captured the essence of that enchanting city.
Rated 14.5 O's out of 20
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