Corner 358-360 Little Collins St & Gills Lane, Melbourne CBD
Like so many good restaurants in Melbourne Gills Diner has its own personality, from the concrete floors filled with wooden bench top tables straight out of the old class rooms of yesteryear and set for sharing, the yellow and white tile covered walls, to the high wooden ceiling with low hanging lights and fans, Gills identity is both unique and welcoming.
Walking in I was struck by the unmistakable smell of freshly made bread baked earlier in the day and served in the small semi attached bakery next door, with the delightful smell awakening the senses and getting the taste buds ready for the meal ahead.
Once seated we were handed the wine menu and served a basket of thick peasant style sour dough, which I duly spread with butter to keep my hunger at bay whilst we waited for the food menus that were conspicuously absent from the table. When the waitress returned to take our drinks order she explained that there is no ‘formal’ menu and that tonight’s choices are outlined on the black boards scattered along the walls, a quirky idea that themes nicely with the overall appeal of the restaurant.
For starters we shared three tapas styled plates of chorizo, mushroom and farro salad, baby carrots with yogurt and harissa and smoked eel with celeriac remoulade and beetroot. Each, although not my traditional choices of tapas, had good use of flavour’s throughout and despite my initial hesitation towards the eel I did go back for seconds!
A large plate of thick chestnut pappadelle with a wild mushroom and sage sauce was presented in front of me for the main course and I was instantly taken back to Chianti, Italy. The pasta was deliciously soft and the subtle, rich flavour of the mushroom bought to the fore memories of last year’s vacation. Around the table other choices included the Porterhouse with chickpeas, carrot, ox tongue and onion jam which was well presented though slightly over cooked from the medium that as requested. While the taste was evident in the nicely cut portion of steak, it lacked the melt in the mouth sensation of a perfectly prepared steak. Also ordered on the night was ravioli filled with a ragu of rabbit and carrots, topped with a prune and pine nut sauce. Whilst this was an adventurous, although slightly too sweet a dish, it was enjoyable and every last mouthful was gladly eaten.
Sitting back in our chairs, finishing the last of the sangiovese and taking in the now bustling atmosphere, our table echoed an agreeable yum as we reflected on an eventful day and delightful evening.
Bill: $55 per person including drinks
Rated: 15 O’s out of 20.
Until next Friday,Olwen
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